“We make what’s called Montreal smoke meat. The best way to describe it is if pastrami and corned beef got a bottle of wine, threw on some Barry White, and had a baby,” says Lex Gopnik-Lewinski, the man behind Augie’s Montreal Smoke Meat, a semi-regular pop-up returning Monday, September 1 (Labor Day) to Oakland’s Beauty’s Bagel Shop. On the menu (11am-3pm): Montreal smoke meat sandwiches, Quebecois poutine and Polish dill pickles. Gopnik-Lewinski, who grew up Toronto and has family ties in Montreal, explains a little more to the Yankee novice: Montreal smoke meat has the texture of corned beef with spice of pastrami. It has been a thing in Montreal for over 100 years, thanks mostly to the Hungarian Jews who brought it over from the old country.